Cattleya (CS-048)

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Cattleya orchids, often called the “Queen of Orchids” or “Corsage Orchids,” are renowned for their stunning, often fragrant, and long-lasting blooms.

Here’s a comprehensive guide to Cattleya care, with consideration for conditions in India:

1. Light:

• Bright, indirect light is crucial for blooming. Insufficient light is the most common reason for Cattleya not flowering.
• They need more light than Phalaenopsis orchids.
• Ideal placement: An east or west-facing window with dappled or filtered light. A south-facing window can work if protected from direct midday sun by a sheer curtain or shade cloth, especially in the intense Indian summer sun.
• Signs of correct light: Leaves should be a medium, olive-green color, and pseudobulbs should be plump and erect.
  • Too little light: Dark green leaves, leggy growth, pseudobulbs that won’t stand without staking. The plant may draw energy from older pseudobulbs, causing them to shrivel.
  • Too much light: Yellowish-green leaves, reddish tint, or sunburn (brown patches) on the leaves.
• Gradual adjustment: If moving a Cattleya from a shadier to a brighter spot, do it gradually to prevent scorching.

2. Temperature:

• Cattleyas are typically warm-growing to intermediate-growing orchids.
• Day temperatures: 21°C to 27°C (70°F to 80°F) is ideal. They can tolerate higher temperatures (up to 35°C / 95°F) if humidity and air circulation are also increased.
• Night temperatures: A crucial 5-10°C (10-15°F) drop from daytime temperatures, ideally between 12.8°C to 18°C (55°F to 65°F), is important to stimulate flower production. This day-night temperature differential is key for blooming.
• Protect from extreme cold or excessive heat sources (like direct AC vents or heaters).

3. Humidity:

• Cattleyas thrive in moderate to high humidity, ideally between 50-80%. In India’s humid climate, this can often be naturally met, especially during monsoon.
• If humidity is low (e.g., during dry seasons or indoors with AC/heating):
  • Use a humidity tray (a tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot doesn’t sit in the water).
  • Group plants together to create a microclimate.
  • Use a room humidifier.
• Good air circulation is essential with high humidity to prevent fungal and bacterial diseases. Stagnant, humid air is detrimental. A fan can be beneficial.

4. Watering:

• This is often the most critical aspect and where many beginners struggle. Cattleyas prefer to dry out almost completely between waterings. They are more prone to root rot from overwatering than from underwatering.
• Frequency:
  • During active growth (new pseudobulbs, leaves, or flower spikes), they will need more frequent watering, perhaps once or twice a week.
  • During cooler, less active periods (winter), reduce watering to once a week or even less.
  • Always check the potting medium before watering. Stick your finger a few inches into the mix; if it feels dry, then water. You can also judge by pot weight (dry pots are lighter) or by observing the roots (silvery/white when dry, green when wet).
• Method: Water thoroughly, allowing water to flow completely through the pot. Do this in the morning so the leaves have time to dry before nightfall, which helps prevent disease.
• Water quality: Use water low in alkalinity, such as rainwater, distilled water, or reverse osmosis (RO) water. If using tap water, ensure it’s not softened with salt and flush the pot regularly to prevent mineral buildup. Tepid water is preferred over cold.

5. Potting Medium and Repotting:

• Cattleyas are epiphytic (grow on trees) and need a coarse, well-draining, and airy potting mix that allows roots to dry quickly.
• Common mixes include:
  • Fir bark (medium to coarse)
  • Coconut husk chips
  • Charcoal
  • Perlite
  • Lava rock
  • A blend of these is often ideal. Avoid regular potting soil.
• Repotting:
  • Repot every 2-3 years, or when the potting medium starts to break down and become soggy, or when the plant outgrows its pot (pseudobulbs are extending over the edge).
  • The best time to repot is when new root growth is just beginning to emerge from the base of a new pseudobulb, typically after flowering or in spring.
  • Choose a pot that allows for 1-2 years of new growth (sympodial orchids like Cattleya grow horizontally).
  • Remove all old, degraded potting mix and any dead or rotting roots (they’ll be soft and brown).
  • Allow fresh cuts on roots to air dry and callous for a few days before repotting, and don’t water for about a week after repotting to prevent rot.

6. Fertilization:

• Cattleyas are moderate feeders.
• “Feed weakly, weekly” is a good general principle during the active growing season (spring and summer).
• Use a balanced orchid-specific fertilizer (e.g., 20-20-20 NPK) at 1/4 to 1/2 strength with almost every watering.
• During fall and winter, reduce fertilization to once a month or every other watering, or stop entirely if growth slows significantly.
• Flush the pot with plain water once a month (or every 4-6 weeks) to prevent the buildup of fertilizer salts, which can burn roots.
• Consider a high-phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 0-52-34) to encourage blooming, alternating with your regular balanced fertilizer.

7. Pests and Diseases:

• Good air circulation and proper watering are key to preventing most problems.
• Common pests include mealybugs, spider mites, and scale insects. Inspect your plants regularly.
• Fungal and bacterial diseases can occur with poor air circulation or overwatering.

By following these guidelines, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying the magnificent blooms of your Cattleya orchids.