Size: 1 packet
Pruning:
Deadheading (cutting off spent flowers) will improve the appearance of the plant and encourage further blooming later in the season. Pinching young plants will help promote bushier growth. Pinch and remove new growth at the top of the plant as close as possible to the next leaf nodes on the stem.
Soil:
Marigolds aren’t too picky about their soil, but will be their best in moderately fertile, well-drained soil. If planted in clay soil or an area that doesn’t drain well, they may not perform as expected.
Amendments & Fertilizer:
When transplanting, a 5-10-5 fertilizer can be added, but is completely optional. Marigolds grown in-ground generally don’t require any fertilizer. In fact, if fertilizer is applied during the growing phase, it can boost foliage growth at the expense of flower production. Marigolds in containers can benefit from a diluted liquid fertilizer watered in occasionally.
Watering:
It is best to water marigolds at the base of the plant and not from overhead. The densely double flowerheads will tend to rot with excess moisture. Allow the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, but do water regularly in high heat or dry weather. Marigolds growing in containers should be watered daily as containers dry out quickly.
Propagation:
To save seeds, allow the flowerheads to fade and dry intact on the plant. When fully dried, remove the petals and shake out the seeds. Not all flowerheads will produce seeds, but most should. Remember that hybrids will not come true from saved seed.
Diseases and Pests:
Marigolds can be susceptible to gray mold, bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew and root rot. Pests such as leaf miners or spider mites may also be a problem. Interestingly enough, marigolds also do their fair share of repelling several types of insects. According to the New York Botanical Garden, marigolds can help keep away mosquitoes, aphids, thrips, whiteflies, Mexican bean beetles, squash bugs, tomato hornworms and nematodes
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